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2017年11月26日星期日

Vacheron Constantin Métiers D’Art The legend of the Chinese Zodiac



Vacheron Constantin is pursuing its dialogue with collectors and devotees of Haute Horlogerie by enriching its Métiers d’Art legend of the Chinese zodiac with the sign of the rooster. The latter will take over from that of the monkey at the Chinese New Year on January 28th 2017. Bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, these two new creations, realized in twelve models each, combine the technical excellence of the calibre 2460 G4 with the beauty of artistic crafts.
China is a nation with which the watch manufacturer has been cultivating its ties since 1845.



The foliage motif appearing on the dial and based on classic Chinese iconography is etched directly in the metal. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold bas by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuating reliefs creating a depth effect. This makes the vegetation appear to be floating over the dial.
The enamel is applied on the surface in successive layers which enhances the intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. Achieving the necessary mastery of colour and of reactions to firing at temperatures between 800 and 900 degrees Celsisus calls for expertise that only can be acquired through years of experience.
The rooster, made of platinum or pink gold, is hand engraved and applied to the dial centre.

The cases are made of platinum or pink gold and measure 40 mm in diameter while being water-resistant up to 3 bar.
Inside the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chines zodiac – Year of the rooster works the calibre 2460 G4, a mechanical, self-winding in-house movement. It shows hours, minutes, days and dates completely hands-free but through apertures. These indications – the first two of the dragging variety and the last two of the jumping type – embody the longstanding savoir-faire of the Maison in designing and developing original displays.
Visible through the sapphire crystal back, the oscillating weight is adorned with a recurrent Maltese cross pattern. All movement components are indeed finely finished in accordance with the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva.



The Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chines zodiac – Year of the rooster watches are equipped with a dark blue or brown, hand-stitched leather bracelets. Both models are limited to 12 pieces per reference.

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2017年11月25日星期六

Wenger Commando Day Date XL 70160


Além da gama Swatch, não há na verdade muitas oportunidades de adquirirmos um genuíno relógio suíço – de uma marca tradicional suíça e com movimento de origem igualmente helvética – por um preço que eu considere ser acessível.
A Wenger é uma excelente exceção. Talvez já conheça a marca porque, a par da Victorinox (por quem foi adquirida em 2002, apesar de continuar a operar de forma independente) é uma das duas empresa autorizadas a produzir os genuínos “canivetes suíços”. E ambas possuem igualmente uma divisão que produz relógios… suíços, claro!
Qualquer uma destas marcas tem relógios com uma excelente relação preço-qualidade. Mas a Wenger aponta claramente para um segmento mais baixo do que a sua concorrente, com imensos relógios abaixo dos 200 euros.
É o caso deste modelo da gama Commando. É possível encontrá-lo à venda por cerca de 150 euros (média de pesquisa online), o que é uma verdadeira pechincha, mesmo tratando-se de uma peça com movimento de quartzo.
Este relógio de tipo militar possui um mostrador com dupla numeração de horas e minutos, três ponteiros e complicação de dia e data às 3 horas. O conjunto é esteticamente muito conseguido, a partir de um mostrador com um diâmetro de 40mm. Neste caso temos uma conjugação entre mostrador branco e bracelete em pele preta, mas existem diversas variações, incluindo com bracelete em aço. O fabricante indica resistência à água de 10 atmosferas (100 metros), mas uma vez que a coroa não é de rosca, este é um valor que deve ser encarado com uma (grande) pitada de sal.

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2017年11月24日星期五

Junkers 6060-5

O Junkers 6060-5 pertence à série Bauhaus da marca alemã, distribuída em Portugal pela SRI.
É baseado num calibre automático de origem Citizen mas modificado pela Pointtec – aparentemente trata-se do movimento Miyota 9100, embora nem todas as suas funcionalidades sejam aqui usadas.
O resultado é este belíssimo dress watch de design depurado, numa caixa de aço com 40 mm de diâmetro – uma dimensão perfeita para um relógio deste tipo – e fundo em vidro para exibição do movimento. A Junkers propõe duas versões: esta, com mostrador branco e bracelete em pele castanha; e a referência 6060-2, com mostrador e bracelete pretas. Qualquer um deles é muito bonito, mas pessoalmente prefiro a versão com fundo branco.
Este modelo é comercializado em Portugal por €449 e o distribuidor oferece uma garantia vitalícia no que diz respeito ao movimento.

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2017年11月20日星期一

Seiko Sportura SPC137P1




O cronógrafo Seiko Sportura SPC137P1 pode não oferecer a nobreza de um movimento mecânico, mas possui atributos que lhe permitem distinguir-se entre o imenso mar de relógios (aparentemente) semelhantes.

O primeiro é o seu tamanho físico: a caixa, de excelentes proporções, possui 44,5mm de diâmetro, o que coloca este relógio claramente entre os modelos de maiores dimensões, que é o mesmo que dizer que poderá não ficar bem em pulsos mais finos.

O segundo atributo que o distingue prende-se com o conjunto de complicações oferecidas, mantendo uma estética que não é demasiado busy, como acontece tão frequentemente nas gamas da Seiko e da Citizen: às funcionalidades típicas de um cronógrafo de quartzo junta-se "big data" com janela dupla às 12h00 bem como um ponteiro às 3 para leitura de 24 horas.

A execução e acabamentos são de elevado nível, com a caixa em aço a oferecer resistência à água até 100m, coroa de rosca e fundo roscado, bem como mostrador com vidro de safira. O conjunto é completado com um bisel que integra uma escala taquimétrica.

Existem 4 variantes deste modelo. O SPC137P1 da foto, com bracelete em aço e mostrador preto; o SPC135P1, igual mas com mostrador azul; o mais desportivo SPC139P1, com bracelete em pele; e uma variante desse mas com caixa em PVD negro, com a referência SPC141P1.

Os preços alinham-se bem com a qualidade oferecida, muita embora não possamos perder de vista o facto de que estamos sempre a falar de movimentos de quartzo: Na Amazon UK o SPC137P1 custa £320; na Amazon DE, o SPC135P1 fica por €388; encontrei o SPC139P1 na Amazon ES por €375; e o SPC141P1 na mesma loja por apenas €308. *

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Steinhart Nav B-Chrono 44



Ich habe bereits mehrfach erklärt, dass Steinhart durch eine bestimmte Kombination von Faktoren meinen Einstieg in die seriöseste Uhrmacherei effektiv darstellt. Und obwohl Ende wieder nach oben zu haben jemals bekam das einzig Steinhart , ich war bisher sehr beeindruckt von der deutschen Marke - von der Qualität ihrer Uhren zu Ihrem Kunden - Support (nur über das Internet verkaufen, auf eigener Faust Website).

So Schritt für www.steinhartwatches.de/en von Zeit zu Zeit, schauen , ob es dort neue Modelle oder Maschinen erwähnenswert hier auf dem Blog. Und bedauern selten ... Im Jahr 2013 fast am Anfang dieses Blogs, ich sprach von Automatik - Chronograph Nav B-Chrono II jedoch abgebrochen und schrieb , dass es eine der billigsten Markt Chronographenwerk war basierend auf 7750 ETA, dem legendären Valjoux .

Aber vieles hat sich geändert. Eine davon war die Tatsache, dass die ETA die Preise für ihre Bewegungen beträchtlich erhöht hat, und 7750 war eine der am meisten gelittenen. Ich habe kürzlich gelesen, dass es praktisch unmöglich war, mit diesem Werk einen guten Chronographen für weniger als 1.500 € herzustellen.

Und was sagt uns Steinhart? Nun, nur eine kurze Suche nach der (neuen) Website und wir haben zwei Versionen von Nav B-Chrono gefunden, mit 44mm oder 47mm Box zum gleichen Preis ... 870 €! Dies in einer schönen Ausführung, die Saphirglas, Glasboden, Gold und dekorierten Rotor und ein Zifferblatt mit einem enthält, das für mich eines der besten Designs ist, die jemals für dieses Werk geschaffen wurden, das vollständige Ziffern in den Stundenpositionen enthält. 6 und 9, wobei die Hilfszifferblätter nahtlos in diese Positionen integriert werden.

Es gibt Details, die ich nicht so sehr schätze (und das veranlasst mich, meine Junker weiterhin jedem anderen 7750 vorzuziehen , das ich gesehen habe), wie es bei der Form der Krone und der Poussoirs der Fall ist . Insgesamt ist dies jedoch einer der besten Wege, um mit (viel) weniger als bei der Konkurrenz einen legendären Zug auf eine Uhr zu bekommen. Sehr zu empfehlen!

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2017年11月18日星期六

JLC @ SIHH

A couple of weeks ago I made mention that I am always looking forward to what Jaeger will bring to SIHH. Previews and Press slips let word and pictures slip. One new release will be a Vintage inspired Deep Sea Chrono. Strangely I am not convinced about this watch. Word is that it is not a true deep diver and is not an homage or based from any particular watch of past in the JLC lineup. Simply put it is a new watch made to look old. This bugs me. As always this is a personal opinion and a humble one at that, but I simply am failing to see the appeal. The watch has a nice dial layout, but doesn’t even have an elapsed time bezel like a Sub or Seiko diver, which I consider essential, not only for diving, but for daily timing tasks. Jaeger has more intuition and development capabilities than this, why not flaunt them at an event like SIHH. I am feeling that my stand by JLC is merely trying to look good in a crowd. Rumored to be only 100m water resistant and absent of functional push pieces at depth, I think they have a trip back in time on their wrists and nothing more. It pains me to be critical of a still great brand like JLC, but order is needed in the house. Per argument’s sake, I understand that this piece is probably not intended to be a hardcore professional tool watch, but for the desk diver in us all. Why not then instead of making a mediocre diving watch, apply that ingenuity to a fully amazing desk watch or continuation in the sport model line like the Seal divers and Memovox watches? I would love to hear thoughts on this piece, not just if it looks good, but rather the reason this watch exist.Bitte sehen fake rolex oder Replica Rolex Air King

2017年11月17日星期五

Heiliger Taucher!



Enchantment under the sea, just like your high school prom but not as lame.

winning them over with both clean traditionalism and substantial size, but this particular Aquatimer shows they aren’t afraid to take risks and innovate. Touch enough for deep water exploration, yet stylish and elegant enough for whatever soiree you can stumble into, this watch is simply full of surprises. Right off the bat the dial has a lot going on. The black wave pattern mesmerizes, and reminds you this watch is meant for the salty sea (not that you’d need it to). The chrono readout at 12 is very detailed, and the luminous markers are bordered in rose gold, making it all very easy to decipher, an absolute must when under the waves. Perhaps the boldest innovation is something rarely considered when looking for a new dive watch, the bezel. While many watches still use aluminum inserts, and some upgrading to ceramic, IWC covers it with scratch resistant Sapphire, giving an extra layer of elegance and protection to an already touch cookie. Powered by IWC’s in house Caliber 89360 movement inside a glowing rose gold case, and you’ve got yourself a diver that can’t stop impressing in or out of the water!

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2017年11月9日星期四

Skeletons Rock



With Halloween this week, it seems like a perfectly fitting time to talk about skeletons. Skeleton watches, that is. These are incredible timepieces, wherein a watch’s movement is cut away and sculpted to offer open-worked magnificence. From gears to wheels, bridges and other parts, watchmakers spend hours upon hours slimming pieces to their tiniest possible size so that only the minimum metal is visible. The minimized metal movement is then placed between two sapphire crystals for amazing see-through beauty. Additionally, the intricacy of the movement parts — with engravings and finishings — is incomparable.



But revealing the movement in all its glory is no easy feat. Stripping away the metal can take days, even weeks. And there is an art to achieving the proper balance of tiny and thin, as well as strong and workable. Additionally, most brands that produce skeletonized movements also engrave the parts for ultimate beauty. That engraving can take hundreds of hours. For these reasons, these mechanical wonders often are created in limited numbers and sometimes have a waiting list. But the artistry of a skeleton watch is worth the wait — even though they do not have bare-bones pricing. Skeleton watches are also worth their price. They are art on the wrist. Stop in and see our selection of chiseled and artistically finished skeleton watches.

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2017年11月8日星期三

Recommended Reading: 3 Top Watch Books for Your Fall Indulgence

As summer comes to a close and fall whistles in with its cool nights and windy days, many find this a great time to settle in and pick up a good book. Lucky for you, we have some great new "reads" that have come on the market for watch lovers only. Here we bring you three top watch books for fall indulgence.



Of particular interest to women, Times of Arabia is all about women's watches as inspired by life. The book falls into eight individual chapters and deftly captures the spirit of the things in life that inspired designers: the sky, the sea, architecture, fashion, mechanics and Earth itself. The book, written by Roberta Naas, veteran watch journalist, features full-color images and illustrations, and makes for light, easy reading and a beautiful coffee-table display.



For lovers of nature and its interpretation in watches and jewelry, you won't want to miss the new Cartier Panthere book. This oversized hard-cover rendition traces the brand's love affair with this sleek animal, and reviews some of the most famous Panthere pieces ever made. Just the photography of the animal alone is worth taking a close-up look, not to mention the artistic masterpieces realized in its likeness.

Sports lovers and car lovers will appreciate the Shelby Cobra 50 Years book, written by Colin Comer with a forward from the late Carroll Shelby. Published with Baume & Mercier, the book offers historical insight into the big win of the Shelby Cobra over Ferrari back in the early 1960s. It is chock-full of historic racing images and superb reflections of a bygone era that made auto history.



Each of these books offers a different take on time.

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2017年11月5日星期日

982852275a



If you are into Marvel, you no doubt have seen or are planning to see the new Marvel Studios movie, Doctor Strange. It stars Benedict Cumberbatch — and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual watch.

The movie is about well-known neurosurgeon Dr. Stephen Strange, whose life changes forever after a terrible car accident. Throughout his search to regain the use of his hands, he encounters unseen forces and is armed with new magical powers, and then must deal with a host of choices.



The action-packed movie showcases the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual watch, worn by Cumberbatch in his role as Dr. Strange. It is a wonderfully complicated watch that is easy to use and offers both form and function.

Part of the brand's ultra-thin series of watches, the calendar watch offers day, date, month, leap year and moon phase indications in addition to time. We invite you in to see our selection of complex Jaeger-LeCoultre watches any time — or, maybe, after you've seen the movie.

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2017年11月4日星期六

become The Center Of Attention With A Replica Watch



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Rolex SA was founded in 1905 by the German Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis. Contrary to popular belief, Hans Wilsdorf was neither Swiss , nor a watchmaker. Wilsdorf & Davis was the original name of what later became the Rolex Watch Company. They originally imported Hermann Aegler’s Swiss movements to England and placed them in quality cases made by Dennison and others. These early wristwatches were then sold to jewelers, who then put their own names on the dial. The earliest watches from the firm of Wilsdorf and Davis are usually marked “W&D” – inside the caseback only.

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2017年11月2日星期四

Royn Jump-Hour Stil Uhr

In meiner Sammlung scheint es viele Uhren zu geben, die im Stil der alten Sprungstunde Uhren gemacht wurden. Die heutige Uhr ist eine davon, aber von einem Hersteller, dessen Namen ich nicht definitiv ausarbeiten kann.

Die Uhr ist von einer Firma, für die ich nur ein Logo habe, und muss daher einen Namen anhand ihres Logos bestimmen. In der Mitte des Logos befindet sich ein y in der Mitte eines Ovals, das ein 'o' sein könnte. Dies könnte bedeuten, dass der Name nur Ryn ist (wobei das Oval dekorativ ist) oder das "o" an verschiedenen Stellen ist, zum Beispiel Ryon oder Royn. Wie üblich hat das Unternehmen keine Präsenz, die ich im Web gefunden habe, das hilft also nicht weiter. Die einzigen anderen Referenzen, die ich gefunden habe, sind die Seite Retro World, die Ryon benutzte, und eine eBay-Auktion, die Royn benutzte. Also, da Ryon wie ein besserer Name klingt, gehe ich davon aus, dass das richtig ist.

Die Uhr ist eine rotierende Quarzscheibenuhr mit einer linken Seitenanzeige. Wie bei den Deadman GV 5766 Uhren, über die ich viel gebloggt habe, ist der Gurt vorne am Gehäuse befestigt, so dass nur ein kleiner Streifen des Gehäuses in der Mitte sichtbar ist (mit der Oberseite und der Unterseite des Gehäuses hinter dem Riemen versteckt) ). Abgesehen von der Anzeige ist das Gesicht leer, und mit seinem gebürsteten Metallfinish fühlt es sich nett und minimalistisch an. Die Rückseite der Uhr hat nur den Namen / das Logo und die Baumaterialien (Basismetallgehäuse und Edelstahlrücken).

Aufgrund des Mangels an Informationen über die Marke und des Designs der 60er Jahre ist es schwierig, ein Datum auszuarbeiten. Da es viele verschiedene Marken zu geben schien, die den Stil der 60er Jahre Ende der 90er Jahre und bis zum Anfang der 00er Jahre annahmen, ist meine beste Vermutung, dass es von damals stammt.



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2017年11月1日星期三

EleeNo Lite ART009 Rad (Variante)

Ein kurzer Blogeintrag heute, da die Uhr, die ich trage, eine Variante von einer ist, die ich vorher gebloggt habe.

Die Uhr ist von der 'Handless Time' Uhrenmarke namens EleeNo, die Teil der SeaHope-Uhrengruppe ist. Meine "ART 009 Wheel" Uhr habe ich 2012 zum ersten Mal gebloggt, und dieser Beitrag ist hier zu finden.

Diese Version hat eine weiße Scheibe mit roten Segmenten hinter dem schwarzen Gesicht und kommt mit einem schwarzen Lederarmband.


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